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Today, the group consists of 28 growers, including three of the original members: In addition to promoting the individuality of grower produced wines, this association allowed producers to market their wines together, through a special bottling of their top wine. If the wine passes muster, it is bottled in a specifically designed, distinctive, bottle for the Club.
In the Club changed the shape of the bottle to the one that is used today which is based on an 18th century design. The top still wines from the previous harvest are brought by each grower to share with the group.
There is an air of conviviality for this tasting. After the February tasting, a consensus is reached about the vintage. After this decision is made, the growers begin the process of submitting wines for a series of blind tastings.
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The panel consists of a rotating group of enologists and winemakers who belong to the Club. The panel tastings, done through spring and summer, are always done blind and are very demanding; wines in both blind tastings are regularly rejected.
One tasting focuses on vin clair from the current vintage, tasted blind, while the other tasting is for finished wines that have previously passed the vin clair tasting and have undergone at least three years of post-secondary fermentation aging in bottle. The methodology is very strict and regularly includes Club wines that have already passed and have been subsequently released in the finished wines tasting.
These finished wines act as a control, calibrating the tastings. There is no standard time-frame for the submission of these wines for the second tasting. Each Club member produces different wines which might need more or less aging on the lees.
Club wine is outstanding. These wines are as individual as the people who produce them and the multitude of terroirs that they hail from.
The wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel, separated by parcel. The wines stay on the fine lees for months prior to blending and bottling and malolactic is allowed. The holdings here are actually very close to each other even though they span two villages. The Chouilly wines come from old vines planted in Mont Aigu, a prime section of Chouilly. The Cramant holdings are extensive and the domaine owns excellent, very old vineyards in Buissons and Fond de Bateau, planted in and , respectively.
In , Didier felt that the wines were so excellent and individual that he decided to make a few different bottlings, separated by Cru. The winery is located in Dizy, which represents an important part of the vineyards owned by the estate.
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A majority of the vines at this agency are selection massale, and average over 40 years, keeping yields naturally low. This means the vineyards for the top wine as well as the cepage are in flux. Many growers feel that this vintage is outstanding, but for Nicolas felt that the vintage lacked elegance and finesse. Needless to say, the based versions of these two wines, which are on release, are superb. This is very often the richest of the Club wines that we offer as well as being the oldest.
The current release, which is quite recent, is from the vintage. In they began planning a new cellar which was completed in , one of the first of its kind in Champagne. The cellar has an extraordinarily low carbon footprint, with enough solar paneling to power the cellar as well as several homes, rainwater collection and filtration for washing equipment and a geothermal heating and cooling system.
Viticulture here is practicing organic with no herbicides, or pesticides used for the last 15 years. Vineyards in Cuisles are quite steep and have a very unique soil, called Illite, a green mica inflected clay. The name is an homage to Jean-Marc, his father who was the Mayor of Cuisles for 25 years and passed away in Jean-Paul was able to purchase some parcels here and began making a mono-parcel wine in from Le Leon, which will be released in This is the second single vineyard wine that Philipponnat has produced since Clos de Goisses was first produced in Arnaud has been focusing on improving viticulture here for the past decade, eliminating herbicides, pesticides and relying more on cover crops.
The wines at this address are outstanding, and though the range is small the entire estate is only 6. The Special Club is always made in small quantities, released only in , , , , and so far.
This blends seamlessly and this Club wine is always a favorite, though the quantity is always small.