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Date: 23.10.2017

Nipped (1914)

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A huge thank-you goes out to long-time customer Carol K. At the end of the article you will find a link to download a free eBook containing all the images in this special feature, plus an array of extra goodies that will help you gain an excellent picture of the time period.

You can print these for your own personal use, and feel free to pass the link around to others. The eBook is free until the end of April! In the image at right from a fashion article, you can see the sway-backed silhouette and the emphasis on a tiny waist. Clothing catalogs of the time period still retain the S-bend fashions that had been popular for over a decade, but fashion magazines tended to feature what was new and grabbing attention in Europe.

I have an original copy of a March issue of La Mode that shows the nouveau empire waistline that was coming into style: Note the slightly raised waistline and the draped, layered effect of the skirts.

These are day dresses appropriate for social calls and shopping. The posture is definitely more upright now with the emphasis on draped details and trims or shawl collar effects around the neckline. These dresses are all listed as "visiting costumes" and appropriate for day wear out on the town. The high lace collars would still hang on for another couple of years, but they were definitely on the way out: The free eBook includes a feature on detachable collars for shirtwaists as well.

Lady Duff-Gordon in Note her draped neckline, multiple skirt layers, and filmy shawl. Lucile, Lady Duff-Gordon, was a well-known fashion designer in and also happened to be on the Titanic she survived. Her beautiful gowns helped shape the new fashion era of the s on into the teens with their fuller skirts and emphasis on beautiful draping and the use of soft, floaty fabrics. They were also commercialized for middle-class catalogs in America, and Lucile wrote columns on fashion for several prominent magazines of the day.

She adored feminine lines and loved to use graceful, artistically draped materials. Notice the waistline sashes on several and the natural necklines on all of them. My s Tea Gown pattern includes diaphanous skirt layers, the slightly raised waistline, and the Asian-inspired sash of the era.

Its square neckline and bodice inset are appropriate for very dressy teas and for evening wear as well: If you plan to attend any formal dinners or evening socials for Titanic, there are a lot of gorgeous extant evening gowns in museum collections that leave the mouth agape with the lusciously draped layers of silk, satin, chiffon, and velvet.

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You could definitely make this with my s Tea Gown--just use lace panels instead of chiffon for the overdress and cut the front of the skirt on the fold. Be sure to check , as there is a beautiful pattern for a evening gown similar to the one above! You can see the high collars that had been popular for about 15 years by the time this catalog was published.

Note that all the skirts have attractive details between the hipline and hem, including wide tucks and decorative buttons. The bodice on the far right shows the draping now growing in popularity. Here is the opening paragraph from the accompanying article: The material, color, and design must be decided upon with a view to the appropriateness for the time of day and purposes for which the gown is required. Taffeta is the newest silk, and is charming for simple undraped gowns and tailored suits, while the more clinging, supple qualities of crepe and satin charmeuse, and foulard, voile, and marquisette are given the preference for more composite designs.

The asymmetrical front closure on the green suit at left slimmed the waist, as did the long lines of the brown coat. From the text of the original article: A long coat should be chosen not only with regard to design, color, and trimming, but also with regard to the purpose for which it is intended.

Such a garment is always in good taste and may be worn for all occasions for several seasons. Feel free to drop me a line through the Contact Form if you have questions about how to do this. The neckline features a lace inset, and there is lace at the edge of the shoulder around the armhole as well.

The bodice and overskirt appear to have a lightweight, semi-sheer material over a candy pink fabric. Note the natural neckline and elbow-length sleeves. This May, , cover for The Housewife magazine also shows the natural neckline and elbow-length sleeves popular at the time. Note the beautifully detailed apron! She drew her inspiration from a couple of fashion illustrations from and The two-toned dress on the far left was the chief inspiration for the pattern, which is an absolutely perfect day dress for Titanic events and makes up beautifully as a tea gown in dressier fabrics like silk taffeta, silk georgette, and other materials that drape nicely.

I especially like the kimono-sleeve style of the dress on the far left. The neckline, cuffs, and hemline all use a contrasting material. The frock is simplicity itself—a big departure from the fussier dresses for little girls of a decade before. The only modifications necessary would be raising the waistline about two inches and adding ruffles to the puffed sleeves.

Do not miss Au Fil du Temps on eBay, who graciously provided this image. They have a wealth of original fashion illustrations, including the two below from late This is a simple style to reproduce, even with modern patterns. So what about boys? The sailor middy has been a perennial favorite from the midth century all the way up to the present day. You saw the version in the Moniteur image above.

These are fairly easy to reproduce with a simple double-breasted shirt pattern and a second pattern for knee-length shorts. Adding a middy collar is not difficult, and you can use the easy tutorial on eHow to create one.

Real newsboys of the time period were usually poor children living hand-to-mouth, but their clothing while patched and mended still resembled what middle-class boys wore. You can easily reproduce this look with thrift store clothing finds.

On the left is a pair of dark brown corduroy trousers with no back pockets and no pleating— just simple, straight pants dark khakis and wool suit trousers are also appropriate.

On the right is a white button Oxford shirt. The collar has no buttonholes, which is important, as the collars of were starched and did not fasten to the front of the shirt with tiny buttons. No buttonholes--just a crisp pointed collar. Now you have two cutoff sections: Cut up one side of each cutoff section and open out flat.

Have your model stand on the chair again, and measure the area below the knee for kneebands. These will need to fit snugly around the leg below the knee with enough of an overlap to button. Now take the trousers and use a seam ripper to carefully open up about two and a half inches of the outseam on each leg: Hem the opened outseam edges to finish them: Now run two sets of basting stitches around the lower edge of each trouser leg, breaking at the inseam: Hem the short raw edges of each knee band: Pin each knee band to a trouser leg, right sides together, matching the hemmed short edges of the bands with the hemmed outseam openings and matching each inseam with the center of each band.

The long raw edge of the band will match the raw edge of the trousers. Pull up basting stitches evenly to fit: Stitch each knee band to its trouser leg, then press the seam upwards away from the knee band.

As you see, the original hem from the trousers makes a nicely finished edge for the knee bands: Now its time to place a buttonhole in each knee band. Notice that the buttonhole is horizontal across the knee band. Sew corresponding buttons in place, and your model is ready to dress up for all the fun! You can also add a knit pullover vest for a slightly different look: That iconic newsboy cap has never gone out of style.

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A favorite cap with the boys is shown above. It shades the eyes, fits snugly and only needs one good tug to put it on in the most secure manner. You can easily find newsboy caps online or at local shops in a variety of woolens and tweeds. The key difference is in the collar of the shirt, which sits high around the neck rather than low against the lapel of the jacket.

It is still possible to find these detachable starched collars today, or you can just get an Oxford dress shirt with no buttonholes in the collar and fold it a bit shorter to recreate this look.

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Again, these are fairly basic suits with high collars. It is very easy to get second-hand suits inexpensively, but you want to keep an eye out for ones with three or four buttons up the front rather than two, as the suits of this time period fastened up closer to the tie and collar than suits of the midth century.

Bulky, loose suit coats are therefore not correct for a impression. Long overcoats if worn can, of course, be loose, as they go over the regular suit. Older boys also wore suits with full-length trousers, as you see in this historic image of a newsboy announcing the sinking of Titanic: Etsy and eBay are both crammed with vintage and reproduction hats appropriate for the Titanic era.